RELOADING

THIS N THAT AND THE OTHER

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In my opinion we have a God given right to bare arms or he wouldn't have let us make them in the first place.

TO MY RELOADING PAGE

A HOBBY THAT IS HABIT FORMING

( BIG BUCK PHOTO AT BOTTOM OF PAGE )

First some words and warnings about this hobby . This web site or the builder of said site ( THIS N THAT AND THE OTHER ) or TRELLEX.COM or TRIPOD.COM OR DILLON PRECISION PRODUCTS,INC will not be held liable for any injury or death in any person using any table of recipes for reloading. These recipes are my own workings for my rifles and pistols..

you have been warned!

It was my brother-in-law that got me started in reloading.

This page is dedicated in his memory.

Steven Ray Martin

Jnauary 16, 1957 - August 30, 2000

Passed away at the age of 43.

Gone but not Forgotten.

Click here to go to Nut'n Fancy Tarm and read his story about his losing battle with drugs.

One of the first things you want to invest in is a reloading manual. Study the caliber gun you have such as 357 mag pistol or 9 mm pistol or 243 rem rifle. Don't get in a hurry to go out and buy a reloading press, scales and lots of tools you don't need. The manual has lots of information and step by step path. This hobby can get quite expense if you want to reload more then one caliber. This hobby will take your close attention such as don't watch a football game and do reloading, don't baby-sit , smoke or have things going on around you that take your mind off what your doing. If you were to drop powder twice in one shell and you shot that shell you could loose fingers, eyes or even you life

The components of one caliber sometimes will fit in another and that's where the danger comes into play. When you reload it's like cutting lumber you measure twice and cut once, only when I reload I check everything three times. The more information you have on your one caliber the better. I wanted to find out as much as I could on say 9 MM so I got hold of three different reloading manuals, some will tell you right off that the total grains they use is at maximum level and you should use the minimum grains of powder first and work your way up. I had three different loads for one caliber and so many different powders you couldn't count them on one hand and there are so many bullets of different weights and configurations it would make you pull your hair out, x bullets, softnose, hollow point, flat nose. full jacket, half jacket, boat tail, I would run out of room if I listed all of them. If you have the ability and the want to all you need to do is start out with the basic components.

BRASS: When I first started I used the factory brass from ammo I had shot. Fired brass or shell needs some things done before being ready to reload. First is to decap the fired primer from the brass, the primer hole needs to be cleaned. The brass body should be looked at really good for splits or cracks, next it needs to be cleaned or polished.

Reloading press: if your going to get into this hobby and spend the money on all the things you need, then let's get going the right way and the safe way. My first and only reloading press was a DILLON RL 550 B with a lifetime "NO-B.S." Warranty. and believe me Dillon's not shooting the bull on the warranty, if anything breaks or doesn't work they replace it free for your life time.To me that's unbeatable. With this press I reload six different caliber's on one machine.This thing will work with 120 rifle and pistol caliber's. Right now it sells for around $326 dollars but its worth every penny when you get the enjoyment of knowing that you are the one that made the cartridge and its ready to load in your gun and fire.

RECIPES: At first I was going to give the recipes for all the caliber's that I reload but got to thinking what if someone used my recipes and got hurt or injured. So if I have disappointed you forgive me.But in the manuals you will find your caliber's and lots more that you will never use. Here is a list of caliber's that I reload.

22 HORNET

223 REMINGTON

243 WINCHESTER

35 REMINGTON

9 MM LUGER

45 ACP

357 MAGNUM

POWDERS: I can't stress enough how important it is to learn all you can about the type of powder you are going to use.This part of loading is very important. I sure don't want my gun to blow up in my face and sure you don't. What to look for in a reloader is automatic powder drop.This is where you set the drop to let just the right amount to fall in the case, and then I always check the weight on the powder scale. If there is to little then the bullet can get stuck in the barrel, if to much it will either split the case and or blow your gun back in your face. Powder is measured in grains and that leads us to a powder scale

POWDER SCALE: This is another important part of loading your ammo. They are very simple to use and really helps in being safe. Scales are priced from around $ 50.00 to as much as you want to spend. I use the ELIMINATOR loading scale from DILLON and so far its done the job. I know some might say electronic scales are better and they might be right if all you do is reload from dawn to dusk. I enjoy loading but have other hobbies also, so why spend two or three hundred when just fifty will do the job.

What I've said on this page didn't scratch the surface but I hope it's helped you some. It cost a little money to get into this hobby but you sure get lots of enjoyment and pride doing it. This page is far from over and I'll be adding more to it in the near furture. This page and its mention of DILLON products is not to promote sales for DILLON for there are plenty of other reloading products on the market. I was just saying what I use and what works for me.

DIES: play an important part in the out come of your finished bullet and before buying several different caliber die sets start with just one set. Read and read some more on that one die set because there are several dies for one caliber and you could spend lots of money and you wouldn't use half of what you bought. The sporting goods store will sell you anything you want to buy and even the things not needed. Lets use this one caliber ( 3 57 mag ) and see how much we spend. You will need a SIZING/DEPRIMING DIE this die puts the case back to the size it was before it was fired, also pushes the fired primer cap out and cleans the flash hole.

BULLET SEATING DIE: this die bells the mouth of the case so the bullet seats in the mouth without having to force it in. Most dies are adjustable and locks so the next round fits the same way.

CRIMP DIE: This die puts just the right amount of tightness on the case against the bullet and keeps the bullet from either going in or out.

The three dies in a set will run about $50.00. They can also be sold separate and would cost about $54.00. The three dies will do the job and do it well if you take the time to lube the case, this step helps two ways, it lets the brass slide in the die better and that helps the die last for a long time.

LUBE: This step is only good if you clean the brass good.

Now don't get none of that black grease and have to clean the whole die set only after loading a few rounds. Why heck they done went and gone modern on us and got this case lube in a non-aerosol bottle, you lay your cases on a paper towel, fan over them as you spray and let them dry a little bit and start loading and you can load 300 or so cases and still not find any build up on the dies.